Why native grasses suit Central Texas
Central Texas, including the Austin and San Antonio region, has hot summers, occasional hard freezes, periods of drought and soils that range from shallow limestone to heavy clay. Native grasses evolved with these swings. They generally need little supplemental water once established, resist many pests, and provide seed and cover for birds and other wildlife. Most are clump-forming perennial bunchgrasses that give a prairie look in a bed.
Do ornamental grasses come back every year? Perennial grasses, including all the native species below, return each year from the same clump. Many warm-season types turn tan and go dormant in winter, then regrow in spring. A few non-native annual grasses sold for ornament do not return, so check the label.
Good native grasses for Central Texas gardens
- Lindheimer muhly (Muhlenbergia lindheimeri). A blue-green clump with tall, silvery-plumed flower stalks in fall. Widely planted in the region and tolerant of heat, drought and various soils.
- Gulf muhly (Muhlenbergia capillaris). Famous for pink cloud-like seed heads in autumn. Does best in sun and well-drained soil.
- Seep muhly (Muhlenbergia reverchonii). A smaller, fine-textured muhly from the Edwards Plateau and nearby areas, with a purple-pink haze in fall.
- Little bluestem (Schizachyrium scoparium). Upright clumps with blue-green foliage and bronze-orange fall color. Suited to full sun and well-drained soil.
- Sideoats grama (Bouteloua curtipendula). The state grass of Texas. Neat clumps with oat-like seeds hanging along one side of the stem; drought tolerant and fairly adaptable.
- Bushy bluestem (Andropogon glomeratus). Fluffy, silvery-white seed heads in late fall. Naturally grows in moist spots, so it can be used near drainage areas.
- Indiangrass (Sorghastrum nutans) and switchgrass (Panicum virgatum). Taller grasses for back-of-border or meadow-style plantings.
- Inland sea oats (Chasmanthium latifolium). One of the more shade-tolerant ornamental grasses, with flat seed heads; it benefits from some moisture.
- Cedar sedge (Carex planostachys). Not true grasses, but fine-textured, shade-tolerant and often used as a softer groundcover.
- Mexican feathergrass (Nassella tenuissima). Native to Texas and Mexico and attractive, but it self-seeds readily and can become weedy in gardens, so cut off seed heads or plant it with care.
Best ornamental grasses for clay soil
Many Central Texas gardens have clay, and some grasses cope better than others. Lindheimer muhly, sideoats grama, switchgrass, little bluestem and eastern gamagrass (Tripsacum dactyloides, a large plant for bigger spaces) are commonly recommended for clay or Blackland-type soils. The main risk with clay is poor drainage during wet spells, so avoid planting in low spots where water stands, and consider a slightly raised bed. Local nurseries and the Lady Bird Johnson Wildflower Center plant database are good places to confirm suitability.
What type of grass is best for Texas lawns?
Native lawn options include buffalograss (Bouteloua dactyloides), which is relatively low-water and slower growing but does not suit shade or heavy foot traffic, and blue grama in some drier settings. Common lawn grasses such as Bermuda, St. Augustine and zoysia are not native but are widely used. Which is best depends on shade, traffic and how much water you want to use. A county extension office, such as Texas A&M AgriLife Extension, can give local recommendations.
What about native grasses for grazing?
Several of the grasses above, including little bluestem, sideoats grama, Indiangrass and switchgrass, are also valued as native forage in rangeland. That is a different goal from an ornamental bed, and stocking rates, seed mixes and management are specific to the property. For grazing or pasture, consult AgriLife Extension or the Natural Resources Conservation Service instead of relying on garden guidance.
Planting and care
- Time. Fall is a good time to plant in Central Texas, since roots establish in mild, cooler weather. Spring planting also works if you water through the first summer.
- Sun. Most prefer full sun. Seven or more hours generally gives the best form.
- Watering. Water regularly while establishing, then taper off. Overwatering and fertilizing can make them floppy.
- Cutting back. Cut warm-season grasses to a few inches above the ground in late winter, before new growth. Leaving them standing in winter provides texture and shelter.
- Dividing. If a clump dies out in the center, divide it in spring.
- Mulch. A thin layer of mulch or decomposed granite helps with weeds and moisture.
Plants to avoid
Johnsongrass and King Ranch bluestem are non-native grasses that spread aggressively in Texas and are generally considered weeds in natural areas. Check whether an ornamental grass you are considering is known to spread in Texas.
Related reading
For a comparison with cold-climate native grasses that share some genera, see native ornamental grasses for the Northeast.