Why use native grasses in a Northeast garden?
Ornamental grasses add movement, texture and long-lasting structure, and native species also offer seeds and cover for wildlife. Many are tough, tolerant of poor soil and need little feeding once established. Most of the best-known natives are warm-season grasses: they start growing late in spring, flower in late summer, and turn gold, copper or reddish in autumn before going dormant over winter.
One caution on “native”: a plant may be native to North America but not to your state or local ecoregion. Species such as prairie dropseed, northern sea oats and pink muhly have natural ranges that only partly overlap the Northeast, so if strict local nativity matters to you, check your state’s native plant list or a regional native plant society.
Native grasses for New England, New York and nearby states
| Grass | Typical height | Notes |
|---|---|---|
| Little bluestem (Schizachyrium scoparium) | 1.5 to 3 ft | Blue-green summer foliage turning copper and orange in fall; full sun and dry, well-drained soil |
| Switchgrass (Panicum virgatum) | 3 to 6 ft | Airy pinkish flower clouds; adaptable to wet or dry soil; sun to part shade |
| Big bluestem (Andropogon gerardii) | 5 to 8 ft | Tall, with “turkey foot” seed heads; suits large borders and meadows |
| Indiangrass (Sorghastrum nutans) | 4 to 6 ft | Golden plumes in late summer; upright form; full sun |
| Prairie dropseed (Sporobolus heterolepis) | 2 to 3 ft | Fine, fountain-like mounds with fragrant seed heads; very drought tolerant once established |
| Northern sea oats (Chasmanthium latifolium) | 2 to 4 ft | Flat, hanging seed heads; one of few ornamental grasses that tolerates shade and moist soil |
| Pink muhly (Muhlenbergia capillaris) | 3 to 4 ft | Pink-purple seed clouds in fall; best in full sun and well-drained soil; hardiness can be marginal in colder areas |
| Purple lovegrass (Eragrostis spectabilis) | 1 to 2 ft | Reddish-purple seed haze in late summer; good for dry, sandy sites |
Heights vary by cultivar and growing conditions, so treat these as approximate.
Best choices for common situations
- Dry, sunny or rocky spots. Little bluestem, prairie dropseed and purple lovegrass.
- Clay or occasionally wet soil. Switchgrass is the most adaptable.
- Shade. Northern sea oats is the usual pick. Native sedges such as Pennsylvania sedge (Carex pensylvanica) are not true grasses, but fill a similar role in shade.
- Meadow or large-scale planting. Big bluestem, Indiangrass and switchgrass.
- Small gardens. Little bluestem and prairie dropseed stay compact.
What is the best grass for upstate New York?
Winters in upstate New York are cold, so reliably hardy species are the safest. Little bluestem, switchgrass, big bluestem and Indiangrass are all commonly used in cold-climate plantings. For tight spaces, compact cultivars of little bluestem or switchgrass may suit better, though cultivars are selections rather than wild plants, and some gardeners prefer straight species for wildlife value. Check each plant’s hardiness zone against yours before buying.
Planting and care
- Sun. Most native grasses do best in at least six hours of direct sun. Too much shade tends to make them flop.
- Soil. Average to lean soil is usually fine. Rich soil or heavy fertilizer can cause floppy growth. Extension sources generally suggest fertilizing only if a soil test shows a need.
- Watering. Water regularly through the first summer. After that most are drought tolerant, though extension guidance suggests roughly an inch of water a week supports the best growth.
- Cutting back. Cut the clumps to a few inches above the ground in late winter or early spring, before new growth begins. Leaving them standing through winter provides interest and food and shelter for wildlife.
- Dividing. Clumps can thin out in the center over time. Dividing every three to five years in spring, just before growth starts, helps renew them.
- Planting time. Spring is usually best for warm-season grasses, which establish as the soil warms.
Mistakes to avoid
- Planting a species labeled “ornamental grass” without checking whether it is invasive in your region. Some non-native miscanthus (Miscanthus sinensis) has been recorded as invasive in parts of the eastern United States.
- Cutting warm-season grasses too early in fall, which removes winter interest and wildlife value.
- Overfertilizing, which weakens stems.
Related reading
Warmer-climate gardeners might compare these with our guide to ornamental grasses for Central Texas, which includes some of the same genera, such as little bluestem and muhly grasses, in a very different climate.